New Zealand cats live pretty sweet lives – warm homes, full bowls, plenty of naps. But that also means a lot of Kiwi cats are quietly overweight, and many owners aren’t sure how much they should be feeding.
Too little, and your cat may miss vital nutrients. Too much, and you increase the risk of diabetes, arthritis, urinary issues, and a shorter lifespan.
This guide breaks down how much to feed, how often, wet vs dry, ideal calorie ranges, and breed & lifestyle nuances that matter for NZ cat owners. It’s based on guidance from organisations like WSAVA, AAFCO, FEDIAF and major veterinary nutrition companies (Royal Canin, Hill’s, Purina), plus real-world cat behaviour.
Quick Links
- 1. Understanding your cat’s energy needs
- 2. How much to feed (weight-based feeding guide)
- 3. Wet vs dry food
- 4. Feeding schedules (kittens vs adults vs seniors)
- 5. Indoor vs outdoor cats in NZ
- 6. Breed & body type differences
- 7. Treats, snacks and human food
- 8. How to tell if you’re feeding the right amount
- 9. Safe food transitions
- 10. Recommended cat foods
- 11. FAQ
- 12. References
1. Understanding Your Cat’s Energy Needs
The amount your cat needs to eat depends on:
- Body weight and body condition (lean vs chunky)
- Life stage (kitten, adult, senior)
- Sex and neuter status
- Activity (indoor sofa-sleeper vs roaming farm cat)
- Health conditions (thyroid disease, diabetes, arthritis, dental disease, kidney disease, etc.)
Most healthy desexed adult indoor cats need less food than the bag suggests. Many feeding tables are based on intact, active cats and don’t fully account for the “Kiwi indoor lifestyle”.
Veterinary bodies generally agree on this range:
- Average indoor desexed adult cat: ~180–250 kcal/day
- Very small or very lazy cats: closer to 150–180 kcal/day
- Larger, active cats: sometimes 250–300+ kcal/day
Those are calories, not grams – so the first step is understanding what’s in your chosen food.
2. How Much Should I Feed My Cat? (Weight-Based Guide)
This table gives approximate daily calorie and portion guidelines for adult cats at a healthy weight. It assumes an average, moderately active, desexed adult. You’ll adjust up or down based on your cat’s body condition and lifestyle.
Important: Always check your specific food’s feeding guide and kcal per 100 g or per pouch/can. Use this as a starting point, not a final answer.
Daily Calorie & Portion Guide for Adult Cats
Assuming a typical dry food at ~380–420 kcal per 100 g, and wet food at ~70–90 kcal per 85–100 g pouch/can.
| Ideal Body Weight | Approx. Daily Calories | Example Dry Food (grams/day)* | Example Wet Food (pouches/day)* |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3 kg | 150–180 kcal | 35–45 g | 1.5–2 pouches |
| 4 kg | 180–220 kcal | 45–55 g | 2–2.5 pouches |
| 5 kg | 200–250 kcal | 50–65 g | 2.5–3 pouches |
| 6 kg | 220–280 kcal | 55–70 g | 3–3.5 pouches |
*These are typical ranges; always check your brand’s kcal information and adjust based on your cat’s condition and veterinary advice.
If your cat is overweight, feed for the ideal weight, not the current weight, and consider a dedicated weight management diet.
3. Wet vs Dry Food: How Portions Differ
Wet and dry foods have different water contents and calorie densities:
- Dry food: Energy dense (approx. 380–450 kcal per 100 g). Small gram amounts pack a lot of calories.
- Wet food (pouch/can): Much higher moisture; often ~70–100 kcal per pouch/can.
Pros of Wet Food
- Helps support hydration, which is critical for urinary health.
- Often better for cats prone to urinary crystals, FLUTD, or constipation.
- Many cats find it more palatable.
Pros of Dry Food
- Convenient, easy to store and measure.
- Works well in puzzle feeders and automatic feeders.
- Dental benefit is modest, but some vet dental diets have evidence for plaque reduction.
Mixed Feeding
Many NZ vets now advocate mixed feeding: some wet + some dry. For example:
- Morning: 1 pouch of wet food
- Evening: measured portion of dry food
This balances hydration, satiety, and convenience.
4. Feeding Schedules: Kittens, Adults, Seniors
Kittens (Under 12 Months)
Kittens need more calories per kg than adults. Feed a kitten-specific diet that meets AAFCO (or equivalent) growth standards.
- Under 6 months: usually 3–4 meals/day
- 6–12 months: 2–3 meals/day
Kittens should never be put on a strict “diet” without veterinary guidance – if you’re worried about body condition, talk to your vet rather than simply cutting food.
Adults (1–7 Years)
- Most NZ adult cats do well on 2 meals/day (morning and evening).
- Some indoor cats do well with small, frequent meals using puzzle feeders to mimic natural hunting.
Seniors (7+ Years)
Senior cats often:
- Lose muscle if underfed, or
- Gain weight if arthritic and less active.
You may need to adjust both diet type (senior, mobility or renal-support diets) and amount. Blood tests are important in NZ seniors to catch early kidney or thyroid disease that can change nutritional needs.
5. Indoor vs Outdoor NZ Cats
Indoor Cats (Very Common in NZ Cities)
- Lower activity; more time sleeping.
- Often prone to boredom eating and weight gain.
These cats generally need fewer calories than the bag suggests. Indoor, desexed cats around 4–5 kg often maintain weight around 180–220 kcal/day.
Outdoor / Hunting Cats
- Explore, climb, hunt, patrol territory.
- Burn more energy, especially in rural NZ or lifestyle blocks.
Active outdoor cats may legitimately need higher portions and can still stay lean. Body condition is your best guide.
6. Breed & Body Type Differences (NZ-Relevant)
Some cat breeds and types commonly seen in NZ have distinct tendencies:
Ragdolls
- Popular in NZ; large, long-bodied, laid-back.
- Prone to indoor lifestyles and weight gain if portions aren’t controlled.
Feeding tips: Choose a large-breed or indoor-style adult diet once grown, aim for the lower end of feeding guidelines if activity is low, and use interactive feeders to keep them mentally active.
Maine Coons
- Growing in popularity; genuinely large cats with slow, prolonged growth (up to 3–4 years).
- Need nutrient-dense, growth-appropriate diets for longer than other cats.
Feeding tips: As young cats, feed kitten or “junior” diets suited to large breeds for longer. Once adult, portion for actual activity level – don’t assume “big = can eat heaps”.
Burmese
- Very common pedigree in NZ and well-known for being extremely food-motivated.
- Strong tendency toward overweight and obesity.
Feeding tips: Consider weight-control formulas even in middle age, measure food strictly (no free-feeding), and keep treats minimal.
Domestic Short Hair / Long Hair (Moggie Cats)
The vast majority of NZ cats. Body types range from petite to solid. For these, individual body condition matters more than breed labels.
7. Treats, Snacks & Human Food
A common pattern in NZ households: the main meals are fine, but treats, “just a bit of cheese”, and leftovers quietly stack calories.
- Treats should be no more than 10% of daily calories.
- Many commercial treats are quite calorie-dense – a few big treats can equal 10–20% of a cat’s daily intake.
- Human foods like cheese, ham, creamy sauces, and fried foods can be very high in fat and salt.
If you want to treat:
- Use dedicated cat treats, ideally lower-calorie, or
- Reserve a small portion of their daily dry food as “training” or enrichment rewards.
Always avoid:
- Onions, garlic, chives
- Chocolate, alcohol, caffeine
- Cooked bones
- Xylitol (sweetener)
- Large amounts of dairy products
8. How to Tell If You’re Feeding the Right Amount
Don’t rely solely on the back of the bag. Use:
1. Body Condition Score (BCS)
Most vets use a 1–9 scale. For most adult cats, aim for 4–5/9:
- Ribs: easily felt under a thin layer of fat, not buried.
- Waist: visible tuck when viewed from above.
- Tummy: slight tuck when viewed from the side, not a large hanging belly.
If your cat is:
- 6–7/9: overweight
- 8–9/9: obese
…it’s time to gradually reduce calories and consider a weight management diet.
2. Weigh Regularly
- Weigh every 2–4 weeks, especially for indoor cats.
- Use the same scales, ideally at the same time of day.
A slow creep of just 200–300 g can be significant for a 4 kg cat.
3. Behaviour
- Constant begging doesn’t always mean “hungry” – some cats learn it’s how to get treats.
- A cat that’s losing weight despite eating well may have an underlying medical issue (thyroid, diabetes, kidney disease, GI disease) and needs a vet check.
9. Safe Food Transitions
Like dogs, cats do best when you transition slowly to new diets:
- Days 1–2: 75% old food, 25% new food
- Days 3–4: 50/50
- Days 5–6: 25/75
- Day 7: 100% new food
If your cat is extra sensitive, slow this further.
10. Recommended Cat Foods
Feeding the right amount is only half the story – you also want to choose a high-quality, complete and balanced diet from a trusted brand. Here are some evidence-aware, vet-favoured options available in New Zealand.
Royal Canin Cat Food
Royal Canin formulates diets around specific life stages, lifestyles and even breeds. Their recipes are designed based on extensive research into feline nutrition, chewing behaviour and common health issues.
- Best for: Cats with specific needs (indoor, hairball, urinary, breed-specific like Ragdoll or Maine Coon), kittens, and senior cats.
- Why we like it: Strong nutritional research, clear feeding guides, and targeted formulas for common NZ scenarios (indoor-only cats, urinary-prone cats, etc.).
Browse our range of Royal Canin cat diets here:
Shop Royal Canin Cat Food
Hill’s Science Diet & Hill’s Prescription Diet (Feline)
Hill’s has a long history in clinical nutrition and works closely with vets worldwide. Science Diet covers healthy cats, while Prescription Diet is used under veterinary guidance for specific medical conditions.
- Best for: General adult cats, indoor cats, seniors, and cats needing clinical support (urinary, kidney, weight loss, GI, skin, etc. – Prescription Diet ranges).
- Why we like it: Strong clinical backing, especially for weight management and urinary health. Great for cats that need precise, vet-led diets.
Explore Hill’s cat food options:
Shop Hill’s Cat Food
Acana Cat Food
Acana focuses on high-protein, meat-rich recipes with fewer grains and more whole-prey ingredients. It’s often chosen by owners who want a more “ancestral-style” diet while still keeping the safety and consistency of a commercial food.
- Best for: Active adult cats, outdoor/hunting cats, and owners looking for higher-protein, lower-carbohydrate diets.
- Why we like it: High meat content, carefully sourced ingredients, and options for sensitive cats (limited ingredient formulas, grain-free options).
See our Acana cat range:
Shop Acana Cat Food
A simple approach is:
- Use a kitten formula from one of these brands until 12 months.
- Move to an indoor or regular adult formula from Royal Canin, Hill’s or Acana, depending on your cat’s activity and preferences.
- If your cat has urinary issues, kidney disease, or needs to lose weight, ask your vet which clinical diet is best.
You can also browse our full cat food selection here: Shop All Cat Food
11. FAQ
How many times a day should I feed my adult cat?
Most adult cats do well on:
- 2 main meals per day, or
- Several small meals using puzzle feeders/automatic feeders.
Graze-feeding dry food all day can work for some cats, but it often leads to weight gain in indoor cats.
Is it okay to feed only dry food?
Yes – if it’s a complete & balanced diet from a reputable brand and your cat drinks well and has no urinary issues. However, many vets now recommend including wet food for hydration, especially in cats with a history of urinary tract problems.
My cat is always hungry. Should I keep increasing food?
Not necessarily. Constant hunger can be behaviour, boredom, or a medical issue (for example, hyperthyroidism or diabetes). If your cat is lean but ravenous, or gaining weight despite eating modest portions, speak to your vet rather than simply increasing food.
When should I switch from kitten to adult food?
Typically around 12 months of age for most cats. Large breeds (like Maine Coons) may benefit from a growth/junior diet for longer, based on your vet’s advice.
How much should I feed my senior cat?
Many seniors do well on similar calories to adults, but:
- Some lose muscle and need more calories or a higher protein diet.
- Others put on weight due to reduced activity.
- Underlying conditions (for example kidney disease) can change dietary needs.
A check-up and blood test with your vet is ideal to tailor feeding for senior cats.
12. References
- World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA). Global Nutrition Guidelines and Nutritional Assessment Guidelines.
- Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). Cat Food Nutrient Profiles.
- FEDIAF Nutritional Guidelines for Complete and Complementary Pet Food for Cats and Dogs.
- Royal Canin. Feline feeding guides and body condition scoring resources.
- Hill’s Pet Nutrition. Feline nutrition and weight management resources.
- American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA). Nutritional and Weight Management Guidelines.
- NZ Veterinary Association – public information on pet obesity and feline health.
Final note: Every cat is an individual. Use these guidelines as a starting point, monitor your cat’s weight and body condition closely, and work with your vet if you are ever unsure about how much to feed.